The story of the tielle begins in Gaeta, a small Italian town between Rome and Naples. In the 19th century, Italian fishing families left Gaeta, bringing with them a recipe for octopus pie called “tiella.” The word “tiella” comes from “teglia,” which means “baking dish” in Italian. In Gaeta, the tielles were filled with octopus, tomatoes, onions, and spices, then baked until golden and crispy.
But that’s not all. Under Spanish rule in the 16th century, the inhabitants of Gaeta were inspired by Spanish soldiers who added a top layer of dough to their pizzas to preserve them longer. This ingenious idea gave birth to the tielle as we know it today.
When the Italians arrived in Sète at the end of the 19th century, they found a lively city with rich culinary traditions. Curious and gourmet, the Sétois quickly adopted the Italian “tiella.” Local fishermen began using freshly caught octopuses, ripe tomatoes, and olive oil to create their own version: the tielle sétoise.
At first, the tielle was mostly consumed by Italian fishing families. Children often took tielles to school, well hidden in their backpacks, as other kids ate croissants from the baker. The tielle was then considered a humble dish, meant for the fishing families of the upper town of Sète.
In the 1930s, Adrienne PAGES, born in Agde and married to Bruno VIRDUCCI, an Italian fisherman, started selling tielles in Sète. Their small business, “La Reine des Mers,” quickly became famous. Faced with growing demand, Mimi Cianni, Adrienne’s stepson, bought an oven at the Marseille fair in 1937 to increase production. And thus, the tielle sétoise revolution was underway!
Adrienne moved her business in front of the bar La Marine, and her son Achille created a small artisanal factory under the stairs of the fish market. Her sister Raymonde took over their mother’s shellfish stall, and together, they continued the family tradition. In the 60s, Sandrine SPOSITO made tielles for 50 years, sold at Raymonde’s stall. Adrienne’s descendants continue to produce tielles with passion.
Adrienne’s children married members of the DASSE and CIANNI families, thus founding their own tielle businesses. Today, the DASSE, VIRDUCCI, and CIANNI companies are among the most renowned in Sète. The tielle sétoise has become a family affair, a true culinary heritage.
Today, the tielle sétoise is a star of Mediterranean gastronomy. Recipes vary from one artisan to another, but the basic ingredients remain the same: a crispy crust, a savory filling of octopus, tomatoes, onions, garlic, and spices. Each bite is an invitation to travel, a reminder of the Mediterranean roots that have shaped this unique dish.